Archive for February, 2010

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Three teenagers board the U-8, carrying a crate of beer. They clank it to the ground- most of the bottles are already empty. They’ll be able to get a decent bit of change for the contents of their crate at some recycling center along the line. They are each holding a half-empty bottle, swaying in the aisle, reeling drunk: a kid with greasy semi-long hair wearing a green army jacket covered in sharpie-scribbled lyrics, a girl with a nose piercing and fire-engine red sideways haircut, and, drunkest of all, a guy with a home job mohawk and combat boots, who pulls an elaborate chunk of technology out of his pocket and begins searching for tunes to blast.

            “Arch Enemy!” he says. “No, no,” the more sensible one in the army jacket cautions.

            “Rammstein!!” Suggests the mohawked one. “Or else what? What do you want to hear?”

            “Pink Floyd,” suggests the army jacket kid, seeming to be the voice of reason, the only one in that crowd talking an approximation of sense. “I don’t have any LAME music!” the mohawk snarls. They reach consensus on some kind of teutonic variant on pop punk, blasting the music over the tiny speakers of the phone/music player, rocking out and singing along. I look around in the train car. There are no authority figures in here. No one to stop these teens from acting like they are partying in their room while their parents are out of town, here, in public, on mass transit.

            America, objectively, has a few things going for it over Germany. #1 would be the USA’s rigorous fire codes, which prevent you from ending up at a crowded concert or some such event with doors that swing open only towards the inside, causing a massive human logjam when the panicked crowd tries to flee after Great White sets the building on fire. Fire codes seem a strangely obvious human interest to neglect legislating, especially so for a country that seems so otherwise efficient in such realms; whose laws concerning bicycle safety, for instance, are so stringently ingrained into the norms of society that people will try to perform a citizens arrest on you if you are biking without a headlight. 

            Then there is the minimum wage, also a great idea for a society that cares about the survival of its citizens, and doesn’t want its fast food franchise workers, for instance, to be paid $2.50 an hour. There is no minimum wage here, which is another strange oversight of the German social set-up, schizophrenically combining a darwinistic free market approach to wages with a liberally apologist unemployment benefits package. That combo makes it a terrible deal to work, since you’ll probably make more if you don’t. The current unemployment rate in Berlin is almost 20%. The cafes are filled with listless masses, staring into space; the trains are filled with young bums carrying around crates of Sternburg export, 45 cents a bottle, including an 8 cent deposit, redeemable at recycling machines located in grocery stores all over the city, the cheapest beer available, the camo malt liquor of Berlin. 

            I’m not sure how I feel about the drinking age. Is it good or bad, a bonus or a minus? In the USA, the legal age for alcohol consumption is, admittedly, too high. Barring people from alcohol until the age of 21 creates a binge-like “catching up” atmosphere in the early twenties, plus it seems like unfortunate timing to introduce young adults to free and unfettered drinking right when they are supposed to be finishing school and making life career choices. USA has a problematic relationship with alcohol in general—all that underage partying is done in secret and shamefully, and even adult society is subject to puritanical restrictions on drinking in public, effectively cordoning the practice off into the private sphere or into smoky, seedy, dimly lit establishments. The long-term burden taken off of the German medical system due to averted stress-related illnesses because that guy over there can loosen his tie and pound a beer on the train home from work is an incalculable savings. One point for this side.

            But, on the negative side, all this freedom has a price. The European concept on how to socially regulate alcohol consumption is minimal, with no or only very laxly enforced legal drinking ages, no restriction or even particular taboo against drinking in public, or for that matter drinking at ungodly early hours in the morning. So, while a certain level of social tension is resolved by this lax attitude, a new and different social tension is revealed. All the secret drinking goes public. You see businessmen getting hammered at 8 AM on the way to work. You watch people stumbling through the afternoon in a shambling coma, the kind of wasted you can’t even imagine being, the stuff of fraternity house legend or hidden family shame. You find yourself on the train, sometimes, standing in the middle of a posse of belligerently drunken teenagers.  

            Listening to them banter, watching the glee with which they annoy their fellow-passengers, I can’t help but feel sympathy for them, remembering my own antics and attitude at that age. Some people argue that letting kids get drunk early on acclimates them to it, gets the youthful folly out of their system, so that they can “handle it” when they are adults. But in Germany I see adults along the entire age range publicly not being able to handle it, shattered fifty-five or sixty year olds, who, in their early teens, found a good friend in alcohol, a solution to their problems, a ready and willing life partner. Of these three in front of me now, who will outgrow it, or learn to cope with it and integrate themselves into “adult, socially responsible” drinking? And who has found their path, is making a life commitment to erasing themselves, to being nothing forever?

 

 

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            The Süddeutsche Zeitung informs me that a group of Parisian hausbesetzer, or, as the French so charmingly call them, squatteurs, have occupied a building downtown. This would not necessarily be big news, except that downtown Paris is not like downtown Detroit- these people are not living in an abandoned factory or warehouse. Their squat is literally an abandoned castle, in one of the cities’ most expensive neighborhoods, nestled between restaurants and art galleries. The paper begins its account with a description of the castle’s interior splendor. Saxophone is bleating out of one room; a play is being rehearsed in another. Not bad! The owner of the castle, an eighty-seven year old woman whose plans to refurbish the decaying building ran aground sometime in the 60’s, has come by once or twice and apparently has hit it off nicely with the squatters. “She even brought wine,” one of the occupiers is quoted as marveling. The SZ op-eds, “French citizens have a high degree of sympathy for protest, be it strikers, demonstrators, or a worker taking their boss hostage in the office. Perhaps in these small revolts they hear the echo of the great revolution.”

            An echo it is: Jeudi Noir (“Black Thursday”), the group responsible for the action, are not militant left-wingers, they are performance artists, trying to bring attention to the current housing crisis in Paris, where rents are astronomical, despite almost ten percent of apartments in the city sitting vacant. “If a building is empty, the homeless have a moral right to occupy it,” says a Jeudi Noir spokesperson. The group originated when its founders met while viewing apartments they could never afford for fun. They decided to begin bringing champagne and confetti to these apartment viewings, transforming them into “happenings.” And now, having snuck in the side door at the Place des Vosges 1-B, they’ve constructed their biggest performance piece yet, a semi-permanent installation with references to 1980’s and 1790’s political activism, all at once. A coup!

            In my own neighborhood, long over-run by restaurants and art galleries, the squat at Brunnenstrasse 183 has just been evicted. The building had been occupied since 1992, and almost two decades later remained one of the last of its kind left in Berlin. Seventeen years, admittedly, is a long time to go without paying rent. At the time of its closing Brunnenstrasse 183 housed a weekly bike workshop, a library, a bar, 47 people ages 5 to 62, and prominently in the storefront, the Umsonstladen, or Gift Shop, where everything was free and a sign on the door advised you that “you are now leaving the capitalist sector.”  I visited this place a few times, picking up everything from literature to a spare coffee mug. The atmosphere inside was always tense and unfriendly, with unidentifiable oi-punk blaring from a small tape player in the corner while people with short hair in front and dreadlocks in back stood huddled in groups, muttering to one another and eyeing you suspiciously, as though you might be a narc. 

German squatting has a general air of intense political seriousness, as opposed to French performance art squatting. “Interior splendor” is not a phrase I would use to describe any such locales I’ve visited in Germany, though, in truth, I have seen some pretty nice ones. Anarchy does not generally equal chaos in the case of autonom spaces; mostly they are orderly and regimented, often adorned with elaborate chore wheels and bi-weekly mandatory meetings to attend. That’s too much bureaucracy for the USA mind to handle– we want freedom with our anarchy. America is all splendor: Providence, Rhode Island’s Fort Thunder, the closest US approximation to European squatter mentality I’ve seen, had some moments of interior decoration that were pretty stupendous. Like Jeudi Noir’s castle, a simulacrum, aesthetically influenced by the unorthodox arrangements of squat living conditions, but without articulated or overtly political intentions. Jeudi Noir has no economic analysis of why so much real estate is sitting empty; Fort Thunder had no concrete strategic resistance plan in place the day the landlord came to throw them out. 

The eviction on Brunnenstrasse was brief and dramatic: the street cordoned off by cops, the park filled with spontaneous protestors (the age of the cell phone: satellite lines jammed by crust punks calling all their friends to get over here, fast), then the cops were in the building; a few hold-outs up on the roof waved flags, briefly, and that was it. The crowd dispersed as ethereally as it had materialized, back to the Rosenthaler U-Bahn station, back into the flow of things, back into atomized life. The next day, I passed by the building, now a ghostly apparition, with empty windows and its monumental mural still out front. Wir Bleiben Alle, say huge, four-story letters painted along the entirety of the apartment house. We’re All Staying. As the days go by and the window are knocked out and boarded up the mural grows to seem somber as a tombstone.

One thing that bothers me about Berlin in the year 2010 is that, if you approach things naively, with no sense of the heretofore, and just go, oh, this place looks pretty cool, there will always be some old-timer who has been around forever on hand to say, no, this is nothing, you should have been here 15 years ago, you should have seen it then, everything was so much better. It’s not that I can’t sympathize with the vantage point: news is mostly bad, and everything does seem to get a little worse every day, when you calculate it along those lines. Especially so when you have in your recent history a notable period of mass euphoria and widespread access to the feeling of freedom to measure your hangover against. Freedom! Despite their organizational efficiency, the Germans love their tastes of it too. The “you should have been here in 1920, that was when it was really going on” crowd is just going out of circulation in Berlin, and already glasnost has upped the ante. Against 1989 partying, maybe everything seems bounded, limited, an ultimate disappointment, a shadow of what was, or what could have been. But things are moving in both directions. It depends on whether you are counting deaths or births. 

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