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            The last few months I have been writing articles for FULL MOON, a Czech music magazine. It has been a pretty optimal experience: they pay me, let me write about whatever subject I want, and, best of all, publish my columns in Czech translation.  It is lovely to see your own writing in print without being able to read it; it really takes the pressure off. You get the fun of filling up pages without the crushing defeat of noticing the typos and editorial mangling. I have no idea if the translations are accurate, I have never received any sort of response or reaction from a Czech person, and, by the time the work sees print, even I no longer have any idea what I’m talking about. You couldn’t wish for a better situation.

            Below you’ll find a recent column, from FULL MOON #4, in the original English. Astute long-time readers might notice that paragraph two was cut and pasted from a column I wrote for heartattack magazine back in 1999. But, see, if this was printed in Czech, there’s no way you would have possibly noticed that. 

 

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PLAN B

            I moved to Berlin to be among like-minded people– artists, creative thinkers, poets and visionaries, to loiter and mingle with them in cafes, along cobbled streets, to breathe in their air, to belong. But, despite my best attempts, my deepest inhalations, I am still very much a Midwestern American, stuck in a certain mind-set. Quite often, I am shocked or confounded by the indigenous social mores. People act strangely here; there are indescribable activities going on in the basements and back rooms of certain clubs and parties. These artists are too much for me. I’d rather not deal with it. My focus has shifted; I care much less about mingling. What I’m seeking now is solitude, the room of one’s own, the mental and physical space to do something of quality.

            I AM AN ARTIST: these are dangerous words indeed. My criticism of people with notions of their own artistic self-importance is summed up in Penelope Spheeris’ film the Decline of Western Civilization Part Two: the Metal Years. In this documentary about the ‘80’s LA glam-metal scene, we get a montage edit of Axl Rose wannabe after Axl Rose wannabe, bedecked in what we can now, from our twenty-first century cultural vantage point, see as grievous offenses to fashion and general aesthetic taste (spandex and scarves? Who came up with that?), each delivering the almost exact same monologue, revolving around their own personal genius and the inevitability of their second-rate Guns n Roses knock-off of a band “making it.” “What if you don’t make it? What then?” the interviewer asks. “What’s your plan B?” The answers are uniform and chilling in their simplicity. “There is no plan B,” each Axl asserts with stoic confidence. Having heard nothing of these bands since, we can only imagine the sad, crushing fates that have befallen these plan-B-less unfortunates.

            I moved to Germany mainly to get health insurance. I had heard about a thing called the Künstlersozialkasse, a special type of health insurance specifically for artists. I wanted that, not because I really cared about being insured, but because I wanted the credentials. I needed some new validation. The studio art degree I’d gotten in 1993 had seemed authoritative for a while, but after a decade or so of not producing any paintings it had lost its luster. My music career stalled when, in a desperate publicity gambit, I attempted to bite the head off of a live bat. Unfortunately, the bat turned out to be rubber, and no one paid much attention. To tell the truth, I was getting tired of coming up with new gimmicks to prove I was artistic. At this point, I just wanted the insurance. If I had that seal of approval, it would be official: no one would deny that I was an artist, and if they did, I could call in any doctor to prove it.

            But my plan B hasn’t turned out to be the smooth sailing I had imagined it to be. I thought it might involve a check-up, a couple of blood and/or Rorschach tests. Instead, officializing my artistic credentials has been a painstaking process, a series of visits to incorrect offices, stamping of forms in places that have turned out to be the wrong places to stamp. I ended up, finally, at the unemployment office. Having no recent evidence of output to show for myself, except for my column in this magazine, I brought a copy to the office, and showed it to my case-worker proudly. “Multi-lingual music journalist,” I said, confidently. “We in the field just call ourselves MLMJs for short.” I winked at him, then added, “It’s a growing field. Very creative.” 

            My case-worker was a soft-spoken, slightly rotund man with a well-groomed mustache and a tucked-in shirt, peering at me without expression as he took the magazine out of my hand. He flipped through the pages, and as he did so I scanned the walls of his office. There, to his left, was an AC/DC wall calendar. The current month showed singer Brian Johnson, one fist raised in the air, positioned in front of the cannons firing off their rounds during a climactic concert rendition of the song For Those About to Rock, We Salute You. I began to quietly sing the opening verse: “stand up and be counted/ for what you are about to receive….” Then I realized this might be a bad thing to be mumbling aloud while being interviewed at the welfare office. I cleared my throat, trying to act like it had just been a brief flash of tourette’s syndrome. 

            The case-worker handed the magazine back to me. “Well,” he said. “I’m a bit into music myself. The harder stuff mostly.” 

            I nodded, smiling, acknowledging his wall calendar. I was in! Like winning at the roulette wheel, I had lucked into the one in a million social worker who was impressed with my resume. All I had to do was dazzle him with stories, about how the magazine had flown me to hang out back-stage at the “Big Four” concert, how Dave Mustaine had revealed the meaning of life to me, and Kerry King had shown me some riffs. Bedazzled, he’d sign the checks on auto-pilot. This was going to be easy. I leaned forward, ready to launch into my first story.

            Unbelievably, my case-worker seemed completely uninterested in the music-related topics I presented, nor could I interest him in discussing my artistic insurance options. In fact, he seemed to be doggedly, single-mindedly interested only in talking to me about one subject: my tax status. Taxes! The commonly acknowledged most boring subject on earth! In America, the first thing I learned about being an artist was that you don’t pay your taxes. That’s for the squares. You think Gorgoroth pay their taxes? But in Germany, apparently, you can feel free to call yourself anything you want, as long as you are paying 17% on it. Instead of becoming my sycophantic toady, calling me too often on the weekends to hang out and pestering me to borrow albums, as I had imagined in those brief moments contemplating Brian Johnson’s upturned fist, my case-worker was handing me a mountainous stack of paperwork. “This is what you need to fill out in order to be a freelance—uh, whatever you called it,” he explained.  

            At home, I examined the form half-heartedly. Like most German paperwork, the first page fooled you, it asked all the easy questions (name, date of birth, etc), lulling you into a false sense of security, and then from page two on the language switched to dense Orwellian jargon, no question was answerable, and the penalty for any wrong answer became severe. It was hard to fill out such a form, especially when drunk, as I quickly discovered. I gave up after a while, decided that filling out the first page was a good enough start for one day, and tottered towards the door, leaving the solitary room behind, in search of that elusive spark, that eternal disappointment, night life. 

            I biked towards Alexanderplatz in a light, drizzling rain. It was perfect outside; one of those nights when the journey might, again, beat the destination. The city rarely disappoints, whether for mood or scenery. Soon, I’d forgotten the form, along with all my other troubles. The night life, I have to admit, is pretty good: consistent and distracting. You never know what’s going to happen (stick to the main rooms, make polite conversation). At an art opening, I ended up in conversation with a young artist, from her accent I’d have guessed she was from southern California, but when I asked it turned out she was from Norway. She was mostly into exploring the boundary between painting and sculpture, she explained. That’s amazing, I replied, but if I might be so bold as to ask, do you know anything about your countries’ black metal scene? Of course she did- the country only has a couple dozen people in it, so it turned out she knew all those people personally, came from the same small town as Gorgoroth, and was even a regular at the same bar as their singer (“it’s the only gay bar in town,” she explained). “He’s more goth than black metal in his attitude,” the young Norwegian had observed. “He hangs out in the corner, brooding with his red wine, that kind of thing.” Yes, yes, very interesting, I said, playing my conversational ace, but does a guy like that have artist health insurance? She smiled, and said, of course, and began explaining the Norwegian health care system to me, which includes cradle to grave medical care for all citizens, and then outlined the general civilization, including its lavish grants and stipends given out to artists of any sort. She segued from there back into her own work, and the blurry line distinguishing mediums that was her area of exploration, leaving me open-mouthed, stunned by the realization that Gorgoroth probably do pay their taxes. 

           

 

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“Al Burian Goes to Hell”

Migraine publications

VS.

“You will rot in Hell, Al”

by Räuberhöhle

 

            They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. But what about intellectual property theft? According to radical anarchists like the Crimethinc collective, stealing- or, excuse me, reappropriating- is a high form of praise indeed, a sign that the ideas have taken on a life of their own, freed from the confining cage of your ego, the western hegemony of that name on your birth certificate. At the very least, it is a litmus test of the intellectual’s relationship to property: should you complain about having your ideas stolen, you’ll reveal your true bourgeois, capitalistic tendencies.  

           A number of people have contacted me about “Al Burian Goes to Hell,” wondering what the deal is, whether and why I would authorize someone to re-publish these comics, drawn when I was 22. The answer is, I didn’t; the comic is a boot-leg, an unauthorized publication of work I handed in to a college art department in order to fulfill graduation requirements, sometime in, I don’t know, the twentieth century, long ago. Why reprint my homework in this day and age? I don’t know. You’d have to ask the bootleggers that question, whoever they may be.

            The main problem with these mysterious bootleggers’ set-up, actually, is that it’s so easy to figure their identity out, starting off with the giant MIGRAINE logo, and the cute little Japanese cartoon characters nestled next to it. This is the work of Ian Lynam, my ex-publisher—nice to my face last time he was in Berlin, thanked in another book of comics I did (my exact wording: “these comics owe their existence to–”). Ian Lynam, who always seemed to be on my side, now officially #1 on the nemesis list.    

            What about insults? Where do those rank as far as forms of flattery?  I have been a side-line contributor to the Berlin-based band Raüberhöhle for years, never shying away from appearing in concert as a machismo-fueled vulture, an inflatable ballerina, a fuzzy pink, uh, something, or a break-dancing elephant. On recordings, I’ve been happy to follow Krawalla’s directives, which have included requests such as “more patriarchy in the vocals.” For the song in question, released on Räuberhöhle’s 2009 “deep in the forest” CD, the assignment was to make a metal song. I contributed some screams and riffed in a heavily metal-ey way on a Gibson SG adorned with an oversized Jägermeister logo. The result was about as passable a metal song as a punk rocker and an elektroclasher are likely to produce. Mission accomplished.

            But: what I didn’t know was that the song was to be entitled, “You will rot in hell, Al.” Krawalla’s English is not 100%, but still, I don’t think I can simply write this off as a translation problem. The meaning of the title seems pretty unambiguous. What gives? Did I do something wrong? In fact, upon listening, it is hard not to interpret this song, with its preachy sample, as a clear commandment, directed at me personally, to accept the Lord Jesus Christ into my life. Again, I have to wonder. Krawalla is an atheist of the more or less hard-headed variety. What is she trying to say?

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            Writing is easy, as Robert Pollard said. It really is. If you can formulate a coherent spoken sentence, the leap from that to transcription, assuming some basic literacy and a spell check program in your native language, is not such a great one. If that minimal exertion of energy is too much for you, you’re not going to make it in the arts generally—they all, by and large, demand some form of expenditure from you.

            Generating the sentences is one thing, the bigger question (and the one that gets you stuck) is: what to do with the words? Writing for no audience seems tantamount to constructing a house of cards in your room, and then knocking it over without showing it to anyone. You might do that every once in a while, sure. But what if you begin to make a compulsive habit out of it? Two choices remain: either go quietly crazy, alone in your room, or confess to an interest in architecture and channel that energy in a more productive direction.

            Processing of words, while less tangible a talent than balancing objects precariously on top of one another, does have some real-world application. You can sell your words for money. Unfortunately verbiage, unlike grain or dairy products, is a poorly subsidized industry, and so the market rates are low, a word being worth, on average, probably 5 – 10 cents. You can break this down further, trying to calculate whether long words or short ones will get you the best cent-to-letter ratio, but, as noted, these sorts of considerations tend to slow down, if not derail, your actual writing process.

            Why write? The basic reason is communication: written language is an ancient solution to the human problem of needing to express ourselves in our full complexity. The bigger reason is influence: you get to express your philosophy through what you present and the way you frame it, through the dialogue you enter into with the reader, from the point of view you open to them. The propagandistic powers of writing were discovered early on: it’s no accident that all the major world religions are based on best-selling books, or that political speech writers can charge more than five cents for their words. Even in our globalized, free-for-all internet age, writers routinely go to jail for their dangerous vocabulary combinations. The power to influence- emotions, feelings, thoughts, opinions; to crack a joke from the grave, to make someone weep with a postcard-is what gives words their meaning and force, and this power is equally available to anyone. It’s just a question of stringing the words together in the most convincing order.   

 

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            I have the problem of procrastination. Waking up, the sun streaming in the window, beckoning, almost being pushy about, the break of a new day. Why be so eager to start your morning? What’s the hurry? Procrastination is a crafty demon, because each little indulgence, individually, feels so good. You don’t register the cumulative bad until it’s too late. Go ahead- lay around a while. Why not?

            Once out of bed, examining my List Of Things To Do, I find that my options for activities to avoid doing today are extremely limited. In fact, all items on the list are checked off, except for one. Theoretically, this should be a day of rejoicing: after all, procrastination is the enemy, a malady Napoleon Hill puts “near the top of the list of the thirty-one major causes of failure.” Look at me, the over-achiever. If I’ve got it whittled down to one item, I’m doing pretty good. Today may be the day I beat procrastination! If I can do this one thing, I will have accomplished that rarest of feats: a fully scratched-off list, completion of everything I had set out to do. A day with everything crossed off the list does not come around too often, and when it does it should be a moment of victory and satisfaction. 

            Realistically speaking, though, having one thing left to do can be the biggest hurdle. The last thing left is usually there for a reason; it’s the one you put off above all others, the ultimate, the thing left to do after all other options for distraction, side-stepping, being swept up in other interests, or otherwise somehow doing something else have dissolved themselves. The last item on my list is written boldly, in all-caps: FINANZAMPT

            Ah, yes. I have been putting this one off for a while. I need to get a new tax ID number, but every day that the weather gets nicer makes the prospect of going to fill out voluminous amounts of paperwork in a grim, dark government building seem less appealing. Today follows the trend of the past days in being far too nice to possibly think about spending time indoors. And yet- if not now, when? Today is the day; this is the one that counts, the difference between everything and not-quite-there. Glumly, I set out on bicycle in the direction of Friedrichstrasse, passing parks and out-door cafés, all looking infinitely more appealing than my destination.

            Arriving and entering the foreboding building, I state my business to the clerk, who grumpily shoves the requisite form in my hand. I take a seat in the waiting room, pull a number from a wall-mounted dispenser, then sit to await my number being called. Now to deal with the paperwork: I take a look at the form I’ve been handed. It is entitled FRAGEBOGEN ZUR STEUERLICHEN ERFASSUNG. Page one (questions 1-25) is surmountable, consisting mostly of medium-to-easy fare such as date of birth and contact information. But pages two to six (questions 26-140) stump me from the start. Confused and losing interest, I reach into my backpack for something else to do. To my shock, I realize that there is nothing in there. No book, no art supplies, not even a notebook. I left the house unprepared, swept up in the impulsive euphoria of X-ing everything off the list. Now, I am trapped in front of these forms with no way to procrastinate. I look around the waiting room wildly. Nothing, not even a Spiegel magazine laying around.

            The clock ticks slowly. The numbers displayed in glaring red numerals on the overhead monitor, corresponding to the ones on our paper slips, move forward glacially. Each new number, when it does come, announces itself with a loud gonging noise. I sit and wait, staring at the wall. Finally, in despair, I decide I might as well try to fill out the forms. I have to do something to kill this time. I stare at the first question on page two, pondering its meaning, trying to make sense of the formulation, thinking about the individual words and what, when strung together in a sentence like that, they could possibly mean. I’m a reasonably intelligent person, after all. I should be able to figure this out, if I set my mind to it. So I marshal my attention and focus. Contrary to my expectations, intense concentration yields no results. Half an hour later, when my number is called, I am still staring at the first question on page two.

 

 

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The world’s creepiest billboard is back. I first noticed it about a year ago, as one in a series of youth-oriented anti-alcohol ads; the general template is a picture of people casually enjoying themselves in a bar. Above each actor, a caption prophetically reveals their fate: the car wreck she’ll get into later, the test he’ll flunk in the morning. Pretty banal stuff. The billboard in question, however, takes this wages-of-sin premise to a much weirder level. The attractive brunette on the left, we learn, will “let go of all her inhibitions” later that night, while the leering, lurking guy in the background will “show her naked in the internet” tomorrow. Indeed, he has already unveiled his camera-phone, with which he is taking a few establishing shots.

            Technology and social mores advance rapidly, and I do not claim to be able to understand young people. I have neither a Facebook nor Flicker account, and so perhaps cannot fully fathom the deep-seated fears of public nude exposure that haunt our youth. I suppose it must happen all the time. This ad would have us believe that such transgressions are an everyday, common occurrence, perhaps only a gin and tonic or two away. OK, sure: once a technology is widely available, there is no controlling the mischief and maliciousness of human ingenuity. The issue that bothers me here, though, is the question of accountability. 

            The woman in the ad looks like a nice enough person, and you get the feeling of an innocent mistake. Everyone is entitled to go home with a loser once or twice. It happens, and is certainly a hazard of drinking too much. But can the same loss of motor control which might naturally lead to wrecking a car be applied to taking photos and then uploading them? That doesn’t seem like an obvious outcome of being too wasted to see straight. Is alcohol really the culprit here? One look at this creepy dude informs you that he has pro lighting gear at home, handcuffs, a water-bed. Why, then, is the onus of responsibility being put on this poor woman? The text of the public service announcement seems to imply, as the root cause of this debacle, the woman’s lack of “inhibition.” What did she do wrong, besides trying to cut loose a little?

            I was overjoyed, some months ago, when this billboard image went out of circulation. But now it’s back, ubiquitously plastered everywhere again, assaulting the public with its bad vibes. And, even more eerily, there has been, as far as I can tell, only one slight modification: the inhibitions (“hemmungen”) have been replaced by a slightly different phrase. “Sie lässt alle Hüllen fallen,” the ad now reads, meaning, basically, “she takes it all off.” Clearly, someone put some thought into my concerns. Perhaps I am not the only one who was offended by the moralizing tone of the former copy; in any case, the “inhibitions” (or lack thereof) seem to have been the focal point for whoever decided on a re-write. Somehow that word evokes too much. The scenario is too complex, brings up too many peripheral issues, does not allow itself to be easily reduced to a question of responsible drinking. If anything, this seems like a public service announcement against cell phone cameras. So the executives, trying to fine-tune their message, and after much thought and discussion with focus groups, have come to this conclusion: the word inhibition is too tricky, too loaded. The true problem, clearly, is the nudity itself. Not the woman’s mind, but the presence of her body. “She takes it all off:” in trying to seem less puritanically judgmental, they have swung the pendulum in the other direction. Now the ad reads like an excerpt from a smarmy soft-core magazine. Meanwhile, the shadowy lurker lurks on, with his cell phone camera ready, grinning his menacing grin. Nothing out of the ordinary there. Boys will be boys.

 

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This is Water, the first posthumously published book by David Foster Wallace, has problems. Most obvious would be its price tag. $14.99 is a lot to shell out for a book that you can easily speed-read in the store. (For an extra $10, you could take home Infinite Jest, a book you can’t speed-read and probably won’t even ever finish.) I’ve already read the book twice, at a bookstore down the street; the time it takes to get through it does not even cause the clerk to raise an eyebrow, let alone give me the dreaded “no loitering” stare.

I’m a fan of Wallace’s writing, and, like many people, was shocked and saddened to hear of his death by suicide in September 2008. It seemed so senseless, and the grapple for some meaning to it was made only more frustrating by the lack of a suicide note. Without the author to provide context, one had to rely on second-hand interpretations, which were hardly comforting. Widespread reports that he had spiraled into depression after going off of medication only made the event seem even more horrible and pointless. That such a great mind would be extinguished, and by a something as mundane and stupid as a pharmaceutical fuck-up, seems to me one of the great crimes of the early twenty-first century. But, like another great crime of the era, the fixed presidential elections in the USA, the wrong that was glaringly put into the spotlight illuminated something so fundamentally rotten at its core that there seemed to be no way to sensibly talk about it. All we could do, in the latter case, was wait for Obama to be elected- an event that, even if it was choreographed by the same group of Bavarian Illuminati who decided not to recount the ballots in Florida, at least had the appearance of a victory for the people.

            This is Water seems a bit like that: if not an explanation, at least a nice distraction. Based on a 2005 commencement address given to the graduating class of Kenyon college, the book wants to be a stand-in, an easy-to-read and straightforward manifesto for living in a meaningful and fulfilling way, delivered by an author who simply could not follow his own advice. It is the Wallace we wanted: smart, breezy, self-assured, ultimately positive. It is, I’ll admit, what I want too. 

            I thought it would be nice to write a review of the book, possibly using my in-store reading as an angle, in any case trying to keep with the author’s jovial tone, staying as light-hearted as I could under the circumstances. But now I’ve been sidetracked by a new tragedy: the death of Ronnie James Dio. What can be said about that? Ronnie James Dio, inventor of the signature two-fingered heavy metal “devil sign” salute, popularizer of the operatic falsetto and the wizards & dragons theme, a tiny elf of a man with a receding hair-line and a wardrobe composed entirely of cloaks and spandex tights. Singer in the bands Rainbow, Black Sabbath, and Dio. Even weeks before his death (of cancer, at 67) he was promising his fans, “there will be more music, more magic.” A popular target of concerned parents and finger-pointing fundamentalists because of his references to darkness and evil, critics of Dio failed to understand the uplifting, life-affirming qualities of his art. It is the Dionysian Yes, a.k.a. the heavy metal hell yeah. The darkness is there to be conquered. There is no need for re-interpretation, speculation, or revision in a song like “we rock.”

            If it seems strange to compare these two figures and their respective legacies, we should consider what the purpose of creative expression is, fundamentally. “Even as disseminators of indignation, writers are givers of pleasure,” wrote Susan Sontag. It takes an effort of concentrated will to glean pleasure from a David Foster Wallace short story like “the Depressed Person,” which comes off as a late night phone call you’d rather not answer, a harrowingly detailed and accurate account of one lost persons’ ruminative self-absorption. But we do try, we struggle to find some pleasure in the prose, the ironies in the narrative, the blazing intelligence of the writer. Because pleasure must be what this is about in the end, or otherwise why did he write it? Why are we reading it? Perhaps we search for the light simply because we must, as a matter of survival. We feel betrayed by Wallace because he was unwilling to complete the journey with us. I would posit that these two men’s messages are not so dissimilar. It is just that it was Dio who managed to live by his own advice. “The brain is an excellent servant but a terrible master,” says Wallace in This is Water. Or, as Ronnie James Dio put it: “I heard a voice/ it said you’ve got a choice/ the hammer or the nail.”

 

 

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Berlin is a tough city for agoraphobes. People just don’t get it. It’s like having body image hang-ups at a nude beach, or not drinking in Chicago. You get blank stares if you express your issues. In Chicago, at least, when you tell people that you are pathologically afraid to leave the house, you get well-reasoned, philosophical responses: “well, a six-pack of old style is cheaper from the store anyway. Should I bring a couple over?”

            Tell a Berliner you can’t cross the threshold of your doorway, though, and you’ll get universally incredulous reactions. “What do you mean? What are you doing in there? Is it really something you couldn’t do just as well in a sweaty, strobe-light illuminated dance club?” Or, alternatively: “Come on. We’re going to see a live gay sex show. That’s not something you can experience sitting around your apartment.”

            I suppose not, unless I get some binoculars and my neighbors turn out to have more interesting home lives than I suspect. This might be the case: you never know with Germans. From what I can tell, when I run into my neighbors, during the occasional frantic sprint down the stairs to the mailbox and back, they are generally late-middle-aged, east German (I’m living on the communist side, missing the wall by only a few blocks and a couple of decades), and not particularly interested in talking to me. That’s OK. The denizens of the former Soviet bloc, having taken their bold step forward- tearing the walls of their prison asunder from within- are facing a sort of economic/ cultural agoraphobia, as they blink in the harsh light of the world outside those walls and get the creeping feeling that maybe they should have stayed indoors. My presence, here in the apartment complex, is met with the grudging acceptance given out to unwanted guests whom you can’t easily throw out because you did, after all, invite them over.  

 

 

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            Tegel International airport, following the eruption of the unpronounceable Icelandic volcano, and less than 24 hours after the resumption of normal airspace freedom, seems very serene- surprisingly so. I don’t want to say disappointing. But where are the long, thronging lines I had imagined? The chaos? Early Friday morning seems very ordinary, business as usual, standard fare. Wasn’t there just a huge calamity going on yesterday?

            The destinations listed on the DEPARTURE screen are seductive: ANKARA, BEIRUT, NEW YORK, TEL AVIV. Look away from those lists, though, and you are confronted with a much more pedestrian reality. In the corner a few tired-looking guys are huddled over their computers, doing busywork with a marked lack of euphoria. Meanwhile a group of teenaged backpackers wander the terminal, from one end to the other, aimlessly, as if unwilling to give up on their hike. They look pale and grumpy, but not as though they have been stranded in an exotic location for a week.  Where are the tearful reunions, the grizzled, frazzled international travelers returning from exile, business-men with Charles Manson beards because they didn’t bother to shave while stranded at Hong Kong international?

            I’ve spent lots and lots of time in airports, often, for lack of anything better to do, taking out a notebook and transcribing what is going on around me. It never amounts to much. Air travel, from the door of the airport on, is a very standardized experience; any slight deviation from schedule, routine or normal behavior is considered bad news here. Unpleasant at best, lethal at worst, symbolically loaded with terror and helplessness (survivors of plane crashes note the eerie calm of the passengers as a plane is going down- because panic would imply some slight possibility of escape), flying is a ubiquitous modern activity. I was surprised, this past week, to notice how many of my friends were stranded or inconvenienced or delayed. People living near airports posted video of the night sky online, astounded by the quiet, the uninterrupted hum of crickets beneath the silent heaven. The dull roar gone, like suddenly being cured of tinnitus. And JFK had this same feeling on September 15th, 2001: calm and low-key, everything business as usual, re-establishing the ritualistic order of security checks and safety demonstrations that hypnotically lull the passengers into trance, into a state of acceptance that this is all normal.     

Though it’s a major travel thoroughfare, the international airport of Germany’s capital city gives a pretty dinky impression. Even Raleigh-Durham beats it out as far as feeling like an official place of arrival and departure. The first thing you encounter upon entering Tegel are rows and rows of stores: souvenir shops, paperback thrillers in piles, rows of duty free liquor, perfumeries, lingerie outlets, a place advertising “neck-ties and more.” You get the impression of a flea market housed in the shell of a run-down mini-mall. Otherwise, there are enough cafes and bars in here to furnish night-life for a small town. The gates and ticket counters are discretely tucked in the corner, inconspicuously shuffling passengers in and out.

This past week, with the airport closed, must have been strange. Stripped of their captive market, the economy of this little village withered up instantly. When I think of the world-economic calamity of the volcano-that-cannot-be-named, I think of pictures from the BBC of African farmers dumping their rotting, unexportable produce into the trash. I hadn’t considered the plight of the guy selling cuff-links on commission at Tegel. Across the way, in the window of a leather goods store, I watch a shop attendant restock purses in the window display. There are mountains of purses in there, mountains of consumer goods everywhere. There is an old man going through the trash systematically looking for bottles. He probably takes the bus out here every day. Tegel must be a great place to find empties.

            I guess I’m just too apocalyptically minded. I had envisioned a scene based off of last summer’s cinematic destruction bonanza 2012 for this airport, with crazy, sleep-deprived passengers clawing and fighting each other for stand-by seats. Volcanic fireballs, still in the realm of Hollywood entertainment six months ago, are standard newspaper headlines as of early 2010- although it depends on what papers you read: American media seems far less hung up on the volcano’s wrath than their European counterparts, devoting their front-pages instead to secret memos and the enemy’s play-enacting of “war games” in the desert. That seems sad, from the stranded European passenger’s point of view: to think those puny humans still believe their tiny, inconsequential actions have meaning, that their memos and angry e mails and parading missiles down a street mean that mother nature won’t burp next week and destroy them all. Air travel, like belief in country or in the economy, is a form of self-hypnosis, a series of illusions that must be maintained at all costs. Thus, everyone goes back to acting, engaging in the normal routine, or what passes for normal in airports. (At 7 in the morning, as I sit slouched at an airport café drinking the day’s second cup of coffee, it is clearly a particularly harsh 3 AM for the guy sitting next to me, staring at a picture of a naked lady in the Bild Zeitung, holding the magazine between thumb and index with his left hand while his right maneuvers a naked, brownish-pink sausage into his slackly expectant gullet.)

            But what about the second volcano, the one with the more pronounceable name? Scientists are warning that it may go off as well. Is there a plan in place for this contingency? How long can airline traffic be suspended before the world economy collapses? Is it really feasible for humanity to be talking about Mars exploration trips for 2030 when we can’t even reliably provide service between Tegel and Heathrow? I try to make conversation about these things at the Information booth. “So, when exactly did the airports re-open?” I begin.

            “The airport opens every morning at five,” the man in the booth informs me, mechanically.

            “No, I mean, you know, since the whole thing with the volcano,” I say.

            “Oh, that,” he grunts, irritated, as if I am bringing up an unfortunate episode with a drunken uncle that shouldn’t be talked about the next morning. He hands me a brochure with general airport info and then I’m given the wave, sent on my way. In the brochure I find a nice diagram of the airport’s layout, including, for my convenience, a list of stores and eateries.

 

            

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            Spring has sprung, and I feel foolish. This is one of the inherent risks of self-documentation: even as the vitamin D overload of sudden exposure to UV rays creates synaptic explosions of optimism in the brain, the nagging knowledge persists that the reader can simply scroll down, and catch me a few months ago, sulking around the apartment in mid-winter mode, making loud and public vows of hermitry, expounding on my dislike of music, the outdoors, and other people—ugly, claustrophobic thoughts, banished like a dream within days of being able to wear a T-shirt and sit in the park.

            I am highly resistant to change, a quality I share with millionaire CEOs and goldfish. But sometimes change overtakes you, and you are compelled to adjust. There is no point in complaining that you have barely had a chance to wear your new winter jacket on a day like this; even if you have been keenly aware of the potentially dystopic effects of technological progress since the late seventies (via my first viewing of Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: a Space Odyssey, which does perhaps validate the US Motion Picture Association’s rating system as a tool for keeping young minds un-warped), you still might end up bringing your computer outdoors to type this. Sitting in stimulating surroundings, amongst teenagers smoking joints and flirting with each other, young adults pushing strollers and playing Frisbee, it is hard not to get caught up in the euphoria. After so much struggling and over-thinking, a lifetime of energy put into positioning yourself against and contemplating to what extent it’s necessary to capitulate, the sudden revelation is that it’s so much easier to just go with it. If no one is looking at me strangely then I am not doing anything aberrant. The truth is that it’s only people like me who would scowl at a person doing what I’m doing, muttering, “you’re one of them,” or snidely assuming that they are in the park with their personal computer because they can’t get a date. Why not just relax, and accept the oncoming future? 2001 is already long gone- we’re living in the golden decade later, and the computers haven’t risen up to kill us yet. The world is my electronic oyster, its shell popping open to reveal the glowing pearl of infinity within.

            Science is making great strides. The Süddeutsche Zeitung reports on the “Congress for Psychosomatic Psychiatry,” held recently in Berlin: amongst other findings, Markus Heinrichs at the University of Freiburg has conclusively proven that the most effective thing a man can do to help a woman in a crisis situation is “massage her neck and be quiet.” That’s nice, and research-wise, it sounds like the holy grail of medical studies a person might sign up for. But do neck rubs really qualify for serious scientific inquiry? Perhaps. The focus of the Congress this year is on the correlation between mental states and physical illnesses. Neurobiologists are becoming interested in psychology: negative emotions are being linked to disease with increasing certainty. “We are nothing but a pack of neurons,” said James Watson, decoder of the DNA strand. Neural activity in the brain- fear, panic, depression- causes hormones to be produced that, long-term, wear down the immune system. The best defense is to be happy, to enjoy life, to flood yourself with the hormones produced from contentment. 

            But: “several studies have found that people with depression have a more accurate view of reality and are better at predicting future outcomes,” according to an article in the New York Times. Being happy, in other words, equals being dumb. That’s the great contradiction of being cognizant: on the one hand, an intelligent and realistic assessment of the future seems to be detrimental to your health, and on the other, a healthy and positive mental attitude is delusional, can only exist if you tune out almost the totality of all the information available to you, and narrow the lens of your consciousness like a microscope. This park, this day, the weather getting nicer, hurtling towards next winter but totally unaware of it. 

 

 

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Museum of Book Pathology, Rome Italy

 

            The “Istituto Centrale per la Patologia del Libro” was founded 1938 by Alfonso Gallo, in hopes of “uniting scientific and historical studies on books in order to rationalize conservation techniques.” A small museum has existed since the institute’s foundation, and was renovated and updated in 2001. The museum is not generally open to visitors; to see it, you have to call and make an appointment.

            After leaving your ID with the security guard and clearing the gated entry, you’re met by a museum official, a pleasant lady who walks you into the building, over to an elevator, takes you up a flight, advises you that there is a very fine museum catalog available for purchase, and then disappears. You are left alone, in the eerie hall with the dead books.

            It’s hard to know what to compare the exhibit to. A morgue? A Body Worlds for literature? The displays are initially optimistic in tone: the history of paper production, including the creation of early forms of parchment, the invention of movable type- all kinds of good news for human progress. “The only work of art greater than a medieval building is a medieval book,” says historian William Morris. That is good to hear, nice to think that the Middle Ages weren’t only black plague and burning witches at the stake. And the medieval codex is indeed impressive, with its meticulous construction and illuminated, gold leaf embossed text.

            But then the pathos begins. Deterioration of paper, corrosion of binding, molds, foxing, book-worms. There is an entire insect aisle, featuring silverfish, cockroaches, termites, woodworms and book lice, along with spectacular examples of the damage these creatures are capable of.  Natural disasters come next- “a large part of the Italian peninsula is subject to earthquakes”- and on into man-made destruction, wars and sieges, books used as barricades and punctured with bullet holes. All forms of unraveling are represented, from the slowest, crawling mildew to instant death by calculated technological assault.

            One begins to feels bad for the books. Indeed, a certain level of anthropomorphism is necessary in here. Or else wouldn’t it seem weird, maybe a little bereft of human feeling, to speak of events like fire, flood, or WWII so reductively in terms of the literary damage? There is a fetishistic relation going on; the museum even lists, not too far behind lice in its line-up of wanton destructors, “readers.” Improper handling, shelving wear, the spilling of coffee cups- readership adds up to a catastrophe scenario for the book conservator.   

            The term “pathology,” as Alfonso Gallo noted, “pre-supposes an anatomy of the book.”  It is this bodily identification that gives the museum its ultimately tragic flavor. The final set of displays, which details advances and successes in conservation, restoration, and repair, and ought thus to end things on an upbeat note, has the aftertaste of futility in its special drying screens and acid-free chemical paper washes. Like hearing modern science congratulate itself on prolonging the human lifespan, the layman can’t quite be fooled, we all know that modern medicine’s life-prolonging powers in the long run are at 0%. So with the books, merely the newest transmutation of ourselves, less crude than cave paintings but still not quite the immortality we crave. The Bible, incidentally, was the first book to be published exclusively in “codex” i.e., in our modern book-with-cover, as opposed to scroll form; thus, like VHS beating out BETA, conquering the market and setting the standard for the industry. Anyone with an attachment to a book, who has ever connected with an author emotionally or felt the illumination of a new idea being transmitted through one, knows what a powerful communicative tool it can be. Anyone who has investigated the resources of a good library can’t help but think of it as a great and timeless brain, where the consciousness of humanity is encoded, where you can communicate with the dead, where thoughts and feelings live on, in a depth of nuance and scope compared to which the marble heads of emperors and kings are meaningless, communicate nothing but that the emperor was jowly and the king had a pointy beard. And so it is a shock to see the subtle crumbling laid out before us, to realize that these objects to which we attribute so much life are in fact dead things, stillborn, things that began rotting immediately upon their industrial completion. As the world goes digital, and literature makes its transition behind the electronic curtain, it is astounding to think of the mountains of books that will be left behind, and the cockroaches following us all the way to the door, eating our output as fast as they can.